92 Points, Vinous Media
"Deep ruby. Sharply focused boysenberry and cherry aromas, complicated by suggestions of candied violet and smoky minerals. Chewy, deeply concentrated dark berry and floral pastille flavors become livelier with air, displaying very good clarity and vivacity. Powerful yet graceful, offering lingering mineral and floral notes on a very long, sappy finish.” – Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media, 92 Points
Now to 2022
Dark berries, perfumed cherries, mineral tautness, fragrant flowers and a bevy of other alluring descriptors is what you’re going to get when you dive into a glass of a Cru-Village Beaujolais! This is serious juice, that isn't the candied plonk (a.k.a. Beaujolais Nouveau) that hits retail shelves right before the Thanksgiving holiday.
Cru Village Beaujolais is not some new emerging category. They have been growing grapes in this Southern Burgundy district since the 1500s. Francophiles and well educated sommeliers know that Beaujolais’ banner grape, Gamay Noir is one of the finest food pairing wines on the planet due to it’s medium-bodied texture, mouthwatering acidity and vibrant fruit that is never bogged down by clumsy new oak.
The House of Paul Janin is a flag bearer of the Moulin-a-Vent village crafting incredibly nuanced Gamay for 4 generations. Their vines are blessed by having a unique “pink granite” sub-soil that imparts a glorious mineral note and tautness to the finished product. This rendition, the “Clos du Tremblay” has a wonderful earth note that only the great terroirs of the Cote de Nuits (epicenter of Red Burgundy) can provide.
The “Clos du Tremblay” is made exclusively for the U.S. Importer and is sourced from vines that average 25 to 80 years old. The fruit component is maximized by whole cluster fermentation and aged in neutral oak just shy a year.
If you are having sticker shock over 1er Cru Red Burgundy and single-vineyard California / Oregon Pinot Noir then this should be on your short list as well as numerous other estate farmed Moulin-a-Vent and neighboring Morgon Cru releases. I always suggest that clients pickup up multiple bottles to a case, considering the pedigree in the bottle, as well as how well the wine will age in the cellar.
"Dark ruby. Intense, spice-accented aromas of cherry pit, blackberry and licorice, with slow-building smokiness and a touch of dried flowers. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors are lifted by a zesty mineral quality and show very good back-end power. Closes spicy and long, with lingering smokiness and a touch of candied violet."
The Cru Beaujolais of Moulin-à-Vent inherited its name from the stoic windmill that has overlooked these vineyards since the 15th century. In the same silent, consistent manner, Paul Janin and his family have tended their Gamay vines for generations. Paul’s son, Eric, is very much a product of this place; he is a fourth-generation grower, overseeing the fruit from its inception in the vineyard to its final resting place in the bottle. The grapes are farmed using lutte raisonnée methods, and the flaky, pink granite soil produces structured, powerful wines that gain even more character as they age. Bright, firm and earthy, they are reminiscent of the great terroirs of the Côte de Nuit.
The Janins’ traditional wines have proved to be as steadfast as the Moulin-à-Vent itself.
Pair with roasted poultry, bean casseroles and even pan fried pork chops.