92 Points Vinous
92 Points Wine Spectator
Colin's 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers bursts from the glass with lemon, white peach and spice notes. This is another of the Colin Chassagnes laced with mineral notes that provide tension and energy. A pointed, crystalline finish rounds things out nicely. There is a lot to like here.
Anise, vanilla, green olive and sandalwood notes introduce this white, while apple, lemon and stone flavors carry the finish. Racy and complex, with a compact finish. Best from 2016 through 2024. --Wine Spectator
Alongside his wife, Stéphanie, third-generation winemaker Bruno Colin farms 30 distinct parcels divided between five communes. In some cases, Colin’s holdings are just a few rows of grapevines. As is traditional in Burgundy, children inherit their parents’ vines. More than one child means the holdings are divided, and so on through the generations, until there is scarcely enough to bottle the wines commercially.
Colin’s ownership in the Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru vineyard of La Maltroie is just one half of one measly hectare, making most so-called micro-produced Napa wines seem positively massive-produced. “A reticent but wonderfully complex nose is comprised by distinctly cool acacia blossom, white peach, pear and green apple hints. There is lovely sense of underlying tension to the elegantly textured and notably mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors,” writes Burghound. Drink now with simple foods that allow this truly boutique white Burgundy to hold center stage at the table.
· Farming at Domaine Bruno Colin is done according to Lutte Raisonnée, France’s age-old equivalent of sustainable agriculture.
· From vines aged an average of 42 years on La Truffière’s famed clay and limestone terroir, this is Bruno Colin’s only holding within Puligny.
· Fermentation is 100% natural at Domaine Bruno Colin and wines are made in much the same way as Colin’s father did and his father before that.
Pale yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of pear, pineapple, lichee, menthol and exotic flowers, plus a hint of orange zest. Round and broad in the mouth, showing a silkier texture to buffer its acidity than some of the foregoing wines here. Flavors of ripe lemon candy and flowers offer considerable appeal already. The tactile, rising finish shows the energy of the white soil.
Michel Colin was the third generation in his family to grow grapes in Burgundy within the prestigious Côte de Beaune. When he retired in 2003, he handed the property over to his sons, Philippe and Bruno, who split the holdings between them to bottle under separate labels. With the help of his wife, Stéphanie, Bruno farms eight hectares of land, in thirty different parcels scattered over five communes, with sometimes as little as just a few rows per parcel. To farm under these circumstances is quintessentially Burgundian, where the old Napoleonic codes of inheritance (evolved from Roman law) divide property equally among offspring. Parcels farmed by any one family continue to get smaller and smaller as they are distributed among relatives.
He bottles Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, Santenay, and Maranges. In the old family winery in the center of the village of Chassagne-Montrachet, he vinifies nineteen cuvées separately, twelve of which are premier cru! He uses traditional vinification methods and ages his wines anywhere from twelve to eighteen months in barrel, though he tends to vinify each parcel in a similar fashion. Bruno’s style shows beautiful balance, both aromatically and texturally, while showcasing the delicate minerality and nuanced complexity of each vineyard.