Kilikanoon Grenache Prodigal Clare Valley 2014

Robert Parker says Kilikanoon is “one of the most brilliantly run wineries in Australia.” James Suckling gave 92 points to their juicy 2014 screwcap Grenache. For a mere $14.95 on two or more, this is a rock-solid value you can open whenever the mood strikes.

If you think it’s fun to squint at a bottle and analyze whether the price, grape type, vintage, and winemaking style are appropriate for that night’s dinner, the day of the week, the weather outside, oh, and maybe the sidereal position of the moon… we totally agree! (We also apologize on behalf of the wine industry.) But have you felt the utter playground-slide thrill of not overthinking it? Bottles like this ‘Prodigal’ Grenache – well-made, and absurdly well-priced – make that possible. Under $15?! Just pour some. 

This 2014 was full-bodied, punchy, and structured to start with, so it’s nice that it’s had some time to settle into itself – yet it’s still sprightly. Big, openhearted notes of black cherry and raspberry syrup are supported by soft tannins, then lifted by zesty acid. There’s spice, cocoa, a little leather, and some violets. A year in neutral French oak gave this structure without overwhelming the rich spirit of the fruit.

Suckling liked the “attractive, tangy core of raspberries with lithe, juicy tannins.” Vinous praised its “lively, sharply focused scents of ripe red berries, candied flowers and peppery spices,” summing it up as “nicely balanced and focused, finishing long and sappy, with gentle grip.” 70% off the winery’s $50 price? Yes, please and thank you very much!

Kilikanoon was founded in the late ’90s by Kevin Mitchell, the son of a respected grape farmer. The winery is based in South Australia’s Clare Valley, 90 miles north of Adelaide. Kevin himself was still the winemaker for this 2014 (he’s since passed the baton of the day-to-day work). This feels like a case-of-twelve situation.